we walked around historic Charleston downtown this late afternoon.  We stopped at the Moon Pie General Store (free samples!) and bought a bottle of water and asked the guy behind the counter for a good recommendation for dinner.  He suggested Fleet Landing which is housed in the old US Navy building.  He also suggested shrimp & grits.  We made our way over and waited for a seat on the deck.  We watched sailboats and shrimp boats come in and a huge container ship leave port.  The sun began to set while we ate and scores of dragonflies flittered and played over the marsh grass off the deck.  Dolphins played and swam in the water too.  It was kind of magical.  And, I actually ordered the shrimp & grits.  Kind of a revelation.  They were like the best mashed potatoes you ever had but different.  Creamy & textured and lovely.